Monserrate Palace and Gardens

2467 Reviews

Star Travel Rating

5/5

Review type

Things to do

Location

Date of travel

2014

Product name

Product country

Product city

Travelled with

Wife

Reasons for trip

Take three eccentric Englishmen, one perhaps even more eccentric Scot, an idyllic landscape with a near perfect climate, and a good deal of luck – the ingredients of Monserrate, just outside Sintra in Portugal.

If Sintra is a fairy tale of fortress, dream palaces and seaside buildings on a mountain, Monserrate goes one better with romantic grounds, Gothic ruins and constructed monuments. It could be Coleridge's Xanadu, except he wasn't the poet who visited.

Each of the Englishmen contributed to the estate. Byron, who did visit, was the Scot who wrote as though Vathek and William Beckford, author of the novel, were one and still living there. The luck came when the Portuguese government belatedly realised it was allowing a World Heritage site fall into ruin.

Beckford was the second tenant, following Gerard de Visme who built a house and planned much of the garden. In his short time there Beckford had a waterfall and Vathek's arch constructed, and probably ordered the mock dolmen. He also had two stone pines planted where they still grow beside the fall, and may have added to de Visme's gardens.

Most of what visitors see now is due to Francis Cook, who purchased the estate after both predecessors and Byron had died. Like Beckford he brought out a gardener from England as well as an architect who refashioned the palace. As the gardens include plants from every continent so the palace blends Venetian, Portuguese and Indian styles. Like it or not, it has some wonderful features such as the music room where concerts are still held and below stairs where the kitchens and food storage are ingeniously managed.

It was never going to be enough just to bring in plants; like the building they had to be managed. Irrigation systems, diversion of water and dams created the first lawn in Iberia as well as desert gardens and swamp gardens. The continuing need of gardeners was made plain to us on hearing an English voice and found there were four students from Kew on an exchange project. The were cutting out disease from naturalised fuschias but had recently planted tree ferns that would not reach maturity in their lifetime.

Monsarrate is both vision and visionary. Byron seemed to think it was there for ever but dedicated management carries more weight than romance. The gardens are constantly evolving: the most recent apect is an English rose garden inaugurated by the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornward. Above all (literally) are the stupendous trees.

One day is certainly not enough to appreciate all that Monserrate offers. Each season demands a visit. As in the best romantic concepts it has borrowed landscape too, from the surrounding mountains to the plain beside the Atlantic.

There is a helpful plan for visitors complemented by signposts from one garden to the next or to the very good cafe and the palace. Stately pleasure dome (it has three) or Brighton Pavilion fantasy, you have to go inside. Although in great need of restoration it had some very well completed areas with interactive displays in a choice of languages for further investigation.

The fabulous wealth needed for Monserrate may no longer be the prerogative of the kind of people who created it but its fame has no need of another Byron.

Silver Travel Advisor

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.