Launceston

256 Reviews

Star Travel Rating

4/5

Review type

Destination

Date of travel

April, 2016

Product name

Product country

Product city

Travelled with

Wife

Reasons for trip

Only two Cornish churches rate four stars for Simon Jenkins in “England’s Thousand Best Churches.” Pevsner had remarked the “barbarous profusion” of the exterior sculptures and decoration of Launceston. It was this rather than the medieval glass of St Neot that attracted me.

We had hoped to visit Cotehele on our way but it wasn’t open until 11 am, so with a long journey ahead and threatening weather we settled for the church of St Mary. To reach it we had to navigate one way streets, avoiding the town gate and (only just!) missing a wall in almost the last space in the car park. Pedestrian zones are all very well but a little more generous provision for parking would be appreciated, even by travellers accustomed to Cambridge.

At least we didn’t have the French problem of traffic free zones being anything but. It was only a short walk to the church: in fact it appeared almost unexpected without a space between its porch and the street. We were so close we could have missed St George and the dragon over the porch. That noticed, however, there was no chance the shields, quatrefoils, flowers and mottoes of the exterior would shrink from view. A photographer’s paradise but a stonemason’s nightmare, these are carved in granite of a hardness emphasised by the near blackness of the stone.

Thinking of the labour involved it makes me wonder if local poet Charles Causley hadn’t had a stonemason’s son in one of his classes. The intensity of it would have made for a “A blitz of a boy.”

That said, the results of such labour have to be admired, as it’s difficult not to admire the energy of a Timothy Winters, or the real pupil who, when Causley introduced Ted Hughes to his school as “a far better poet than I’ll ever be,” bellowed: “Oh, no he ain’t.” There was to be an event at a nearby home that Causley had admired but we were not able to attend, so back to the church.

Inside is twentieth century timber work: a gothic rood screen and reredos. The pulpit is painted black with gold details and a red and green stem. Foliage, as outside, is profuse. The bench ends illustrate the works of God. The roof is a typically Cornish barrel vault but with carvings of angels and it seems more than 400 bosses.

We also found one brass and a small medieval memorial to admire before making our way outside and around the town square. Looking for a way back to the carpark we noticed a sign for the castle. Launceston was ready for defence during the Civil War but the need failed to materialise. A view through the gate towards what is left of the keep shows it would have been formidable.

John.Pelling

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.