Once you have driven past the garish amusement arcades and entertainments on the seafront you arrive at a right turn under the cliffs; here you can park in a huge car park and are then within easy walking distance of the old town high street with many eateries, interesting shops and pubs. Right under the cliffs is the Fishermens’ Museum housed in an old chapel, free entry and a must, even if just for half an hour. The net huts are impossible to miss and under them are several fresh fish shops, supplied daily by Hastings’ own fishing fleet; this you can walk around at ease as it is kept hauled up on the pebbly beach just behind the huts.
When you have walked enough to get up an appetite there are many fish and chip cafes, but the best of these is The Rockanore, just opposite the fresh fish shops. All the fish is very fresh and beautifully cooked – grilled, fried or baked. There might be one item in batter, such as the squid starter, but battering is not the chef’s style. The chips too are way above the basic variety. The wine is not cheap but well-chosen and, if white, nicely chilled.
After lunch you could visit the Jerwood Gallery if the artist is to your liking, or take the cliff railway up to the lovely country park above for views over the old town and the sea.
This side of Hastings can so easily be missed and the resort then perhaps dismissed as just another day out for the masses on a holiday weekend. Make sure you see the ‘real’ Hastings, not just the more popular part. It’s worth the effort.
