Romania’s 22 painted monasteries are dotted around Bucovina, a region divided by rolling hills with ‘crests’ which branch off the Carpathians. The monasteries date back to the 15th century, when Orthodox Moldavia was battling the Ottomans, and the colourful scenes on the external walls were designed to convey Biblical stories to soldiers and illiterate peasants. They have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993 and are a must see.
We spent two days exploring six monasteries discovering that in the Romanian Orthodox tradition, places where both monks and nuns live, are referred to as monasteries. As well as the church, accommodation, and well-tended gardens with a well, each monastery usually had a museum, where information in English could be a bit hit and miss. In addition, each had a place, either near the church or within a separate building, for the lighting of candles: on separate sides for the living and the dead.
Lonely Planet told us that each monastery had a dominant colour, which we didn’t really notice, and listed the most important frescoes in the monastery.
Suceviţa Monastery – Nuns
High walls and buttressed defensive towers surrounded Suceviţa’s monastic complex, giving it the appearance of a fortress. Founded in 1581 it was the last and grandest of the monasteries to be built, but restoration, to preserve rather than renew, was taking place on one side.
A steeple resting on a star-shaped base topped the church, and massive eaves had been designed to protect the outside frescoes. This monastery introduced us to what we began to describe as the ‘heaven and hell frescoes’, usually at the entrance. At Suceviţa the fresco ‘Ladder to Paradise’ had angels ascending to heaven and sinners falling into hell, guided by demons.
In the upstairs museum, we found royal tomb embroidery, medieval manuscripts, religious silver and icons. However, we were more entertained by a nun ‘giving it large’ to two visitors who had glazed over and were constantly edging near the door in as polite a way as possible.
The complex had excellent gardens and ruins near the entrance.
Moldoviţa Monastery – Nuns
Moldoviţa was founded in 1532 by Petru Rareş, twice the ruler of Moldavia and illegitimate son of Stephen the Great. It was therefore appropriate that a bust of Rareş greeted us at the entrance. The frescoes on the north wall had virtually disappeared. Here the dominant colour was said to be yellow, and we found one of the most noted frescoes, The Siege of Constantinople. Other frescoes appeared more modern and abstract, and we later discovered it depicted the angel Seraphim.
There were no translations in the small museum, where the main object was Rareş original throne. Also on display was the Golden Apple, or Pomme d’Or, an international tourism award, received in 1975, to recognise outstanding cultural value. We also enjoyed photographs of some of the frescoes before and after renovation.
As we left, bells began pealing and a nun circled the grounds beating a wooden clapper, called a semantron. Whilst this was designed to summon the nuns to prayer, to our disappointment there was little activity.
Voroneţ Monastery – Nuns
Although meant to be the jewel in the crown, it was my least favourite, partly because it felt the most commercialised with souvenir stalls lining the path leading up to it. Then having gone through a modern front gate, we found it to be the most crowded and we had to dodge around the groups.
The frescoes on the wall facing us on arrival, were virtually non-existent, but they were much better on the end wall where the ‘Last Judgment’ fresco had a dramatic depiction of Heaven and Hell, separated by a river of fire. The fresco included figures of angels, demons, and people being judged, with Satan welcoming sinners and Archangel Michael pushing the condemned towards hell.
Voroneț is also renowned for its unique ‘Voroneț Blue’ colour, made from crushed azurite, which has remained vibrant for centuries.
The gardens appeared to be under renovation and were the most disappointing. There was no sign of a well within the grounds or museum, but as this was our fourth monastery of the day, we were slightly flagging and somewhat relieved. As we left, the bells were once again ringing out.
Dragomirna Monastery – Nuns
Dragomirna was the largest of the monasteries we visited and resembled a fortress. Perhaps because of its more remote location, we were the only visitors during our time there.
This was a very tall, narrow church and whilst the outside walls were not painted, there were noted for a rope bas relief around the outside. Inside they displayed the prestigious 2014 European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage in the conservation category.
We climbed very steep and uneven stairs to the balcony which ran the length of the walls, and this gave us a good overview of the site, before we ventured down to the cemetery with a nearby river.
The museum, up an exterior flight of stairs, displayed manuscripts, silverware, and embroideries. However, the two remarkable pieces were a huge candle lit for the first time in 1609 when the monastery was consecrated, and a three-armed cedarwood cross carved with 32 biblical scenes in miniature. We were told by the nun that the monastery housed monks until 1970, and that the museum had been their refectory.
A large shop displayed natural skincare and wellness products including lotions, oils, creams, and syrups made from traditional herbal recipes with everything being made onsite by the enterprising nuns.
Guru Humorului Church and Monastery – Nuns
On arrival, we began taking photographs of a church with stunning, brightly coloured frescoes. We then realised that this was not the monastery church, which was nearby and virtually buried by wooden scaffolding and supports. However, despite this we were able to go inside and see the frescoes which taking into account their age, were just as remarkable.
Putna Monastery – Monks
Although Putna is not one of Bucovina’s painted monasteries, it is significant for being the burial place of Stephen the Great. Here a grand wooden arch, led into the complex which had ruins on the left-hand side. Within what were beautiful grounds there was a display of bells which allowed us to see them close up.
Here there was an excellent and extensive museum with several rooms which we enjoyed. On leaving the museum, the monk who sold us our ticket asked where we were from. Having said London, he told us he’d been reading a book on English grammar about adjectives and nouns and asked which of two statements was correct. We waffled away about how you could say both and were grateful when more visitors arrived and we could beat a hasty retreat.
Unfortunately, a church service was taking place and so we couldn’t go inside but it was atmospheric as it was being broadcast outside.
Visiting Tips
The monasteries are relatively spread out and your own transport is essential.
Whilst there was a dress code of no shorts or skimpy outfits, heads did not need to be covered.
There was usually a small entrance fee of around 10 Lei (£1.60), and as with the rest of Romania there is often a discount for pensioners.
Whilst photographs are allowed outside, they are banned in the churches and some museums.
Monasteries do not close on a Monday like other museums and are always a
