I feared for the survival of our pristine, brand new hire car as we chugged up a donkey track, got stuck in a pothole trying to avoid the passing lorry and held our breath in the most vertiginous parts. But it was worth it. Söğüt is a village of two parts; the real thing upstairs and the touristica, with all its restaurants, downstairs. Waterfront Cottage is a peach, a few steps from the water, even fewer to the nearest restaurant.