In search of the Northern Lights in Norway

Alan Fairfax

Silver Traveller Alan cruised to Norway and the Arctic Circle in search of the Northern Lights and discovered small coastal towns and villages, mountains covered in snow and frozen waterfalls, but did he see the lights…? Read on to find out.

It’s November, the sun has set as Ambassador Ambience leaves her berth at Tilbury, transiting the River Thames to the open sea and our first port of call, Haugesund, Norway.

What to expect on Ambassador Ambience

My cabin, a balcony on deck 11, was spacious with a comfortable bed and more than enough drawer and hanging space for a long voyage with the usual amenities of hairdryer, fridge and TV plus a three-pin socket, plus a USB slot. The balcony has a table plus two recliners on which to relax and watch the world go by.

The Buckingham Restaurant operates two seatings for dinner, but open seating for breakfast and lunch. The buffet, Borough Market, is located on deck 12. For something special try, Saffron, specialising in dishes from India, or Sea & Grass, a dining experience having seven ‘acts’ on a fixed menu. There’s also Al Fresco Grill for that burger by the pool. Add to this, seven bars, two coffee locations, a large theatre, two lounges with live music, a swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam, hot tubs, large sunbathing areas and a wonderful ‘blast from the past’ and ‘late night nibbles’ you have a ship that should suit the expectations of everyone.

Ports of call

Haugesund

A small town of less than 38,000 people situated on Karmsundet Sound. 90 minutes from here is the breathtaking beauty of Langfoss Waterfall, cascading 650 feet into the fjord below and said to be the most photographed waterfall in Norway, attracting 650,00 visitors a year. Little wonder CNN voted it as one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world.

Alesund

Arriving early morning to a backdrop of snow-covered mountains, we dock in Alesund said by some to be the most beautiful city in Norway due to its art nouveau architecture. Situated at the entrance to Hjørund Fjord the city, covering several islands, is also a busy port as accessing Alesund by any means other than ferry is limited. Heading north it gets dark early, as we sail, the town with its lights resemble a fairy wonderland.

Trondheim

Situated at the mouth of the Nidelva River on the south of Trondheim Fjord, and established over 1,000 years ago, Trondheim was Norway’s first capital but now ranks as the third largest city with a population in excess of 200,000. Trondheim is a wonderful city for exploring, visit the famous Nidaros Cathedral dating back to the 13th century with seating for over 1,800 and built over the burial site of King Olav who became the patron saint of Norway. The Bishop’s Palace houses the army museum. To see more of the city at a leisurely pace take a trip on the Trondheim Tram.

Alta

Entrance to Alta, our first port within the Artic Circle, is through narrow fjords, snow-covered mountains, frozen waterfalls, past small villages, and houses so close you can see the lights at their windows. The milder weather has gone, snow is falling as we head to our berth in the city. Alta is home to the Northern Lights Cathedral, the most unlikely looking cathedral you will ever see. Experience a sledge trip pulled by a team of Huskies over the frozen wastes, visit a Sámi Village, home to the Indigenous people of the territory. In Alta there is always something to do.

Tromsø

Located nearly 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Tromsø is built on an island joined to the mainland by the Tromsø Bridge and an undersea tunnel. Another Arctic city where you are spoilt for choice of what to do. Visit the Arctic Cathedral, shaped as an elongated inverted V, head to a Reindeer Ranch or experience Reindeer Sledding. Perhaps join a boat trip for whale watching – it’s only when they break surface near the boat you realise how big they really are.

Narvik

As towns in Norway go Narvik is fairly new, having been built as a port in the late 1800s to ship iron ore mined in Sweden. Try a tourist train, the Ofoten Line, carries passengers on part of the Arctic Train route. Visit the Polar Wildlife Park and see bear, moose, lynx, wolf and more. Take the Narvikjellet Cable Car on its four-minute journey to the upper cable station and enjoy panoramic views.

As we sail the captain announces the Northern Lights are about to appear. I rush to my balcony in time to see the beautiful green dancing shapes spreading across the sky. They only last for a few minutes but those few minutes have made the voyage an unforgettable memory.

Bodo

Norway’s 2024 Capital of Culture, and our last port of call in the Artic. Arriving in darkness the lights from the sea front and docks reflect upon the fresh snow as early morning traffic makes it way along treated roads. The city features plenty to do, from the renowned Stormen Public Library affording wonderful views over the harbour, the Aviation Museum or you can ride a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) to the Saltstraumen and see the world’s largest maelstrom.

Bergen

Known as ‘The Gateway to the Fjords’ but for me it’s my last port of call in this beautiful country. One not to miss is the Floibanen Funicular Railway. It’s a six-minute ride to the top of Mount Floyen almost 1,000 feet above sea level. Climbing through tunnels it becomes apparent that part of Bergen is built on the mountainside, Attaining the summit, the views are stunning taking in 180 degree vistas over the town to the mountains, harbour and islands beyond, this is what memories are made of.

Cruising solo

This is a cruise of memories, beautiful scenery at the various ports, spectacular sunsets and sunrises, and of course the Northern Lights. Travelling as a solo was a pleasure, the first afternoon at sea we had a cocktail party hosted by members of the Future Cruises Team, and waiters serving drinks and canapés. This was followed by a solos lunch and finally a farewell gathering with drinks. There were also three daily meet ups but not hosted. This cruise line is exceptional for solo travellers, there were 134 of us, the majority repeat passengers, and it’s easy to see why. 

Next steps

For more information about Ambassador Cruise Line and their 2025/26 Northern Lights cruises, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.

Alan was a guest of Ambassador Cruise Line.

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