Mention you’re going to Central Asia’s ‘Five Stans’ and people can’t resist trying to name them, and you’re possibly doing likewise as you read. They usually start with Pakistan and Afghanistan when in fact they should be thinking of the lesser-known Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.
I knew little about these ex-Soviet states, but having visited Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan recently, I was keen to explore them whilst politics allowed. We were aware that visiting five countries in one trip would be challenging, but thought it was the best way to understand the similarities and differences.
Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is probably the most well-known, with its Silk Road cities of Khiva, Samarkand and Bukhara. We quickly became familiar with what we began calling the four Ms: mosques, minarets, madrasas and mausoleums. There were so many, with the common denominator being their ornate tiling and mosaics in azure, lapis lazuli, indigo and gold. There was no shortage of artisan workshops or souvenir shops now housed in former caravanserai or roadside inns, and the student rooms of the madrasas.
We heard about the destruction caused by the Mongols and how Bukhara’s Kalon minaret survived as when Genghis Khan’s hat fell off, and he bent down to retrieve it, he realised he’d bowed to the 100-year-old tower, and it was saved.
Turkmenistan
Turkmenistan is amongst the least visited countries in the world, possibly because it’s one of the more difficult ‘Stans’ to visit, requiring letters of introduction, visas on arrival and in June 2024, a Covid test costing $33, as well as an immigration fee of $14. Many social media apps and websites are banned, although people seem to find a way around it.
The Darwaza Gas Crater, known as the Door to Hell, was a vast opening in the earth where natural gas has been burning for more than forty years.
A drive through the Karakum desert which covers 70% of the country, took us to its bizarre capital, Ashgabat, where only white cars and white marble buildings are allowed, with the latter being lit up like Las Vegas at night.
Tajikistan
93% of the country is mountainous, and a spectacular drive through the Anzob tunnel, said to be the most dangerous in the world due to its lack of lighting and ventilation, took us up to the turquoise Iskander Kul (Kul means lake) at 2,195m. Here we enjoyed gentle hikes against a backdrop of the snow-capped Fan Mountains.
This was a competitive ‘Stan’ with the capital Dushanbe, formerly Stalinabad, boasting Central Asia’s largest library, and until 2014, the world’s tallest flagpole. What was meant to be the world’s largest teahouse, Kohi Navrus, changed purpose during construction and the ornately decorated building now hosts foreign dignitaries and delegations. A massive new Parliament and Government offices, built with China’s support, seemed totally over the top for less than 100 parliamentarians. Photographs of the president, who has served for nearly 30 years, were patriotically displayed everywhere.
Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan is the land of the nomads and we stayed at two yurt camps. Whilst I was slightly apprehensive, their beautiful design, vibrantly coloured furnishings, and comfortable felt yurt slippers were all homely. At our first camp, our yurt stove was lit during dinner, but when it was restoked at 2am, it created a sauna-like heat. Midnight bathroom excursions meant dressing and donning head torches, so we were relieved when our second yurt had the luxury of an ensuite bathroom.
A highlight, not just in Kyrgyzstan but of the whole tour, was meeting Ruslan and his golden eagles. After watching a hunting demonstration, fortunately involving pelts rather than live animals, we were able to put on the glove and hold Karakys who weighed a hefty 5kg with my partner taking up the offer of mounting Ruslan’s horse.
Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan, the world’s ninth largest country, is probably most famous for Sacha Baron Cohen’s creation Borat.
At the Altyn Emel National Park, covering 4,600 sq km, we had the opportunity to ‘hear the singing dunes’. However, scaling a monster dune in temperatures of over 30 degrees, whilst sinking over our boots into soft sand, defeated us.
The former capital, Almaty, had wide-ranging sights including the candy-coloured Zenkov Cathedral, built entirely of wood, two surprisingly interesting museums dedicated to retro Soviet cars and folk musical instruments, and cable car rides to the Shymbulak ski resort.
Culinary staples in the ‘Stans’
Plov, or rice with rather stringy, tough lamb, onions, and carrots, was ubiquitous, with everywhere declaring their version the tastiest. We also tried manti (dumplings), samsa (like samosa) and laghman (noodles), whilst qurut, small salty balls of dried yoghurt, went well with a drink. Ironically our favourite meal was on our final night in Kazakhstan at the German Paulaner Bräuhaus.
Green and black tea were served with all meals, and we enjoyed both local and Russian beers and more adventurously, tried kumis, fermented mares milk.
Know before you go
Temperatures – with five large countries, there is not an ideal time to visit all, and in places daytime temperatures rose over 40 degrees, but when at altitude, dropped below 10 degrees at night.
Accommodation – as well as yurt camps, our accommodation ranged from simple to swanky five-star hotels, and also included Community Based Tourism homestays and local guesthouses which varied in size and quality. All were different and we got used to single beds and shared bathrooms.
Currencies – with two of the five currencies called Som and another, the Somoni, we had to be on the ball, especially when rates varied between 4 Manat to the pound in Turkmenistan and 16,000 Som in Uzbekistan.
Formalities – crossing land borders on our own proved relatively straightforward but time consuming, with the formalities and trek across no man’s land, taking up to two hours. However, our British passports elicited smiles and welcomes. An e-visa for Tajikistan was obtained in advance and the visa for Turkmenistan obtained on arrival.
Road travel and distances – we chose to travel by road and avoid flying were possible, however, this meant long journeys, of up to several hours, often on unpaved roads. We compared loo stops to cars: a Lada being literally a hole in the ground, with a Rolls Royce having a western loo with paper and running water.
Finally
Whilst there were many similarities, each country had its own identity and although I returned exhausted, I’m much more knowledgeable about a large part of the previously mysterious world, and perhaps more importantly, I can now pronounce and spell them all.
Next steps
To plan and book your holiday to one – or all five – of the ‘Stans’, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
