Walking in the Venetian Hills with Headwater Holidays

It’s always hard to turn your back on Venice, but when the alternative is a holiday in the tranquil Venetian hills, it’s not such a great sacrifice. This cluster of 81 volcanic peaks – the Euganean Hills to give them their proper name – lies inland from the lagoon to the south of Padua and neighbouring Vicenza, their conical outlines visible from afar across the flat plain.

Cluster of volcanic hills To the east of the hills, fashionable spa resorts use thermal spring water for both medical and wellbeing treatments. A chain of vineyards around the lower slopes combine to form the Euganean wine route, home to a wide variety of varieties including prosecco. 

The Euganean Hills have long been a retreat for wealthy Venetians in the hot summer months. Today they are quietly prosperous, dotted with small towns rich in historic buildings but housing everyday working folk. This is authentic Italy, untouched by mass international tourism, and visited mostly by locals.

Popular with Italian walkers and cyclists, it is also features on the programme of active self-guided holidays from Headwater. I’ve always found Headwater to be good on avoiding tourist hotspots in favour of hidden gems where holidaymakers can explore at leisure without the crowds. And for me, this trip ticked all the boxes.. 

Their comprehensive website gives full details of the 8-night itinerary and four hotels, but having walked the trails in June 2017, I’m sharing my tips for how to make the most of this delightful trip.

Transport

My friend and I flew to Venice Marco Polo – Verona is another possibility – and caught the train to Mestre for the half-hour high-speed journey to Vicenza. There’s a regular bus service from the airport to Mestre, but our bags were delayed coming off the plane for half an hour, so we Vicenza splashed out on a taxi instead – strongly advised if there are any delays. In Vicenza we were met by the Headwater rep, Sara, for the car transfer to our first night’s lodging. 

Flights are available from various regional airports and we flew from London-Luton early afternoon, but I’d recommend trying to catch a flight that gets you to your accommodation by late afternoon, simply so that Sara can brief you about the week ahead before dinner. Arriving around 8pm in time for dinner, we were briefed next morning, which inevitably means a later start on the trail.

Walks

Este Headwater grade their walks from 1 Boot to 3 Boots, 1 being the easiest. This itinerary is Graded 1+ boots but as a veteran of many Headwater trips ranked 1 or 2 Boots, I’d say this was nearer 2. You get what it says on the tin – hills – and some of the climbs have some long uphill stretches. 

But inevitably, going up is followed by coming down, and we were treated to some lovely views as we completed a circuit of the hills over the week. The routes are a mix of shady woodland trails and quiet roads with minimal traffic. We met no other walkers despite seeing leaflets of walks in every hotel. The hill roads are popular with Italian road cyclists and you may also meet mountain bikers, especially at weekends. Our four walks ranged from 7 to 11.5 miles and although two offered longer alternatives, in the June unexpected heatwave, we stuck with the shorter options.

Rest Days

Padua is accessible by public transport on various rest days around the circuit, but we chose to go from Galzignano on a Sunday. Buses take about 40 minutes but unfortunately they don’t run on Sunday so we splashed out on a taxi at 20€ per person each way. Padua But it took just 25, minutes, dropping us at 9.30 and picking us up at 5, and Padua was blissfully quiet on a Sunday which enabled us to tick off virtually everything on our list apart from the University tour  which is also closed on Sundays (Galileo taught here!). We even managed to secure timed tickets for the Giotto frescoes of the Cappella degli Scrovegni, but you’re best to book ahead online to avoid disappointment. The red Citysightseeing bus is a great way to get your bearings and some historical background.

As we expected, we adored Padua but the big surprise was Vicenza, visited on our rest day at Teolo. Take a taxi to a nearby village to pick up the bus service – details from the hotel owners. Home town to 16th century architect Andrea Palladio, it is listed by UNESCO for its Palladian heritage. Easily walkable in a day, it’s a stunner.

Hotels Well-deserved dinner

All the hotels are family run, traditional in style, and largely visited by Italians. All of the owners spoke at least basic English and the welcome was warm in each one. 

Three were air-conditioned whilst the agriturismo rural hotel provided us with an efficient fan. Don’t expect fancy toiletries or trimmings – the Italian way seems to be shampoo sachets and basic hairdryers – but we were comfortable everywhere and really felt part of the local scene.

Food

My travelling companion is coeliac and always takes her own bag of breakfast cereal. But gluten-free meals proved no problem, if flagged up in advance. She was offered gluten-free bread, biscuits and pasta. We even found a limited range for picnics in local supermarkets including cereal bars and beer! 

DeparturesCappella degli Scrovegni, Padua

Walking in the Venetian Hills departs every two days from May to mid-October. June was delightful – though unseasonably hot during our week, even back in the UK – with cuckoos and cicadas calling in the woodland. September and October might be more comfortable with the added advantage of changing colours in the woods and vineyards on later departures. City breaks can be tacked on in Venice or Verona when booking.

276 people found this helpful
18641

Share Article:

Gillian Thornton

Travel writer

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

There’s something refreshingly nostalgic about the quintessential British coach holiday….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.