Back-Roads Touring – Puccini, Porcini and Prosciutto: Part 2

Florence: culture, sculpture and gardens
Florence's running army band pause for a song Triumphant music filled the air as a group of uniformed men sporting black feathered helmets charged past my hotel window, golden trumpets glinting in the early morning sun.  Abandoning all thoughts of breakfast, I donned my running shoes, grabbed my camera and dashed outside to follow the band’s somewhat unruly progress to the centre of the Ponte Vechhio where they stopped, regrouped and, to the delight of tourists and locals alike, burst into a rousing chorus of “Funiculì Funiculà” before hurtling off again, deep into the city.  What a rousing start to my first morning in Florence!

The Ponte Vecchio Back at the 4 star Pitti Palace Hotel enjoying breakfast on the open terrace with its stunning views of the Duomo and Campanile, I studied my Dorling Kindersley: “Eye witness Travel: Florence and Tuscany”.  The whole day stretched ahead of me before meeting up with my Tour guide and the rest of the group on the “Back Roads Touring” 9 day tour of Tuscany and the Cinque Terre.  Wishing to avoid duplicating the itinerary for our scheduled walking tour of Florence, I decided to explore the banks of the river Arno before visiting the Uffizi gallery and the Boboli Gardens.

The Ponte Santa Trinita as viewed from the Ponte Vecchio The hotel is metres from the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence.  Lined with goldsmiths’ shops, it is topped by the Vasari corridor built in the sixteenth century by the Duke of Florence Cosimo I de’ Medici to connect the Uffizi with the Pitti Palace enabling him to walk between his residences without mingling with the crowds.  I certainly empathised with him as I ducked under the outstretched arms of selfie-obsessed tourists and danced around the wares of street hawkers spread out on the ancient cobblestones.

Simone D’Auria’s white figurines The riverside walk to the Ponte Santa Trinita was quieter and I paused in the Vicolo dell’Oro to photograph Simone D’Auria’s bizarre troupe of white life-size figurines climbing the buildings and hanging from trapezes high above the square, and to drool through the windows of the recently-opened Leica store.

Stag made of twigs on the river Arno Spying a statue of a stag formed from twigs and driftwood balanced precariously on a log in the middle of the river, I walked further along to the Ponte Alla Carraia, capturing photos of the dome of Santo Spirito, before crossing over and following a muddy riverside path to gain a closer view of this intriguing, ephemeral work of art that would disintegrate with the rising water levels.

At the Uffizi, I joined the end of a fairly long queue of people who, like me, had not reserved tickets.  After 20 minutes without the queue moving, I gave up, resolving to return the following afternoon during our free time, not realising that the majority of museums in Florence close on Mondays.  Fortunately I was able to squeeze in a quick tour at the end of our holiday just before catching our return flight.  Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus” at the Uffizi Arriving at 08.15 it took me 90 minutes to get inside where I found it surprisingly uncrowded as I rushed around visiting my “must sees” including Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and the ancient Roman Statue of “Boy removing thorn.”  Reserving tickets in advance is highly recommended.

Adjacent the Uffizi is the Piazza della Signoria: a magnificent, free, outdoor sculpture gallery flanked by the impressive buildings of the council chamber with its towering campanile.  How wonderful to be able to gaze at 16th century works of art such as the somewhat gruesome bronze of Perseus clutching Medusa’s severed head and the Rape of the Sabine Women.

Life imitating art South of the Arno, I walked around the vast but somewhat uninspiring facade of the Pitti palace seeking the ticket booth for entry to the renaissance-styled Boboli gardens.  As you ascend the stone steps of the amphitheatre, you gain pretty views of Florence across the more attractive rear of the Palace.  The steps led to the Neptune Fountain where visitors were entranced by the antics of a grey heron, perching on a giant sea shell, imitating the Birth of Venus.

Iris blooming in October I wandered off to seek out the avenue of cypress trees and statues that led to the moated garden with its L’Isoletta (Little Island) but was disappointed to discover that this area of the gardens and surrounding paths had been closed off following recent serious storm damage. After visiting the Porcelain Museum with inspiring views from its rose garden, I sought out the splendid La Grotta Grande, close to the chubby statue of Bacchus sitting on a Turtle, before heading off to the lesser known Bardini Gardens, a few hundred metres from the Bobili: their entry fee was included in my ticket.  In these peaceful gardens with their far reaching views across the city I was surprised to discover a flag iris – the symbol of Florence – in full bloom in October.

Florence's Duomo and Campanile Our group walk through Florence the following morning was a “Whispers Tour” whereby our guide, Julia, spoke to us through a microphone via our earpieces, enabling us hear her clearly above the general hubbub of the crowds.  We duplicated my visit to the Piazza della Signoria and continued to the bustling Mercato Nuovo with its bronze boar statue surrounded by tourists rubbing its nose to ensure their return to the city.  A tour of the Orsanmichele church and museum followed with its impressive statues of the patron saints of Florence’s various trades guilds.  After coffee in the Piazza della Republica we followed Julia to the Duomo – the cathedral of Florence.  Words cannot do justice to this remarkable 14th century building with its green, pink and white marble exterior walls, towering Campanile and iconic red tiled dome.  The interior is refreshingly simple with decoration largely reserved for the marble flooring and Vasari’s frescoes of the last judgement that adorn the dome.

The tour concluded at a leather shop where we learnt how to detect real leather.  Surprisingly, it is not by the smell, which fakers can easily reproduce and spray onto synthetic fabrics, but by the touch: if you can press the inside surfaces together and move them between your fingers, it’s fake, as was demonstrated on one of our group’s “100% real leather” bag, newly purchased at the market.
  
View of the River Arno from Piazzale Michelangelo With the afternoon free, I followed our tour guide’s advice and climbed up winding pathways south of the city to the busy Piazzale Michelangelo, with its spectacular views across Florence, before descending via a stone stairway to find the Giardino delle Rose – a well-kept secret rose and sculpture garden that appears in few guide books.
 
There were a few straggly blossoms but the peaceful pathways kept me entertained as I sought out unusual sculptures dotted amongst the trees.  It would provide a fragrant haven in spring and summer.
 
View through a “suitcase” in Giardino Rose garden With time on my hands before our evening meal, I returned to the Duomo, took a deep breath, and purchased tickets to climb the dome (463 steps) and the campanile (414 steps).  This is not recommended for people like me who suffer from claustrophobia, or acrophobia, and should not be undertaken by anyone with a heart condition!  The staircases and corridors are narrow, frequently windowless and climbers are forced to stop and squeeze against the wall to allow descending visitors to pass: a tricky maneuver on uneven spiral staircase.  I conquered my fears and was rewarded by the amazing 360 degrees views from the top.

View of the Duomo from the Campanile On our final morning in Florence the group had reserved tickets for the Galleria dell’Accademia to see the original Michelangelo statue of David (there are copies in the Piazza della Signoria and in the Piazzale Michelangelo), and countless fine works of art depicting the Madonna and Child, and scenes of the Crucifixion.  By mid-morning we were climbing aboard our mini coach and heading for Lucca.  My visit to Florence ended, as it had begun, with the sound of music: Sergio, our mini coach driver, burst into joyful song as we waved the city goodbye.

Carole and John enjoyed these experiences during an 8 night/9 day tour “Tuscan Treats and the Cinque Terre” through Back Roads Touring.

There are many useful travel guides to Florence and Tuscany; Carole selected Dorling Kinderley’s Eye Witness Travel guide to Florence and Tuscany as it is beautifully illustrated, highlights places to visit suggesting “Star Features” and includes a pull out map of the city as well as maps of the interiors of key buildings such as museums and cathedrals.

•  Read Puccini, Porcini and Prosciutto – Part 1
•  Read Puccini, Porcini and Prosciutto – Part 3
•  Read Puccini, Porcini and Prosciutto – Part 4
•  Read Puccini, Porcini and Prosciutto – Part 5

215 people found this helpful
17797

Share Article:

yorkshirecat

Social media manager, freelance writer, photographer

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

There’s something refreshingly nostalgic about the quintessential British coach holiday….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.