Finding the real Greece in August: Part 2

Chrissy Nason

After collecting our hire-car in Thessaloniki we drove south for three hours to Volos and onto our next stop, Pinakates, a mountain village on the Mount Pelion peninsula, a lush, verdant, wooded area with stunning sea views and amazing architecture: stone built merchant mansions nestling into the steep hillside, many restored to their former splendour, untypically Greek in style. Little Swallows B&B, PinakatesWe stayed at a beautifully restored B&B guest-house, LittleSwallows, (in reality more akin to a small boutique hotel), complete with swimming pool. Set down from the main road access is by steep steps so unsuitable for anyone with walking difficulties. The owners, Maria-Louisa and Edouard a Belgian couple who moved to the village 25 years ago, were excellent hosts and their knowledge of the area was superb.

With two lovely traditional tavernas in the Pinakates, as well as others in nearby villages and on the coast, the food was good with local Pelion dishes. Roads in the mountainous villages did not exist until the ‘70s and the extensive network of old cobbled mule-paths connecting the villages now provides wonderful walking and hiking. Pinakates is also a good base from which to explore the fantastic beaches on the northern Aegean side of the peninsula – including Damouchari where Mamma Mia was filmed.  In nearby Milies an original 1903 steam train operates a daily service on a single track that winds its way through the mountains at 20kph with fabulous sea views over Pagasitikos Gulf – as featured on Michael Portillo’s Continental Railway Journeys and not to be missed.

The historical Little Train of PelionFrom Pinakates we drove through beautiful villages down to the coast and the tip of the Pelion Peninsula to our next destination Paleo Trikeri, a small island with two tavernas, a monastery, around 100 inhabitants and no cars! We parked on the mainland and caught a water taxi the short distance to Aghia Sofia, one of two hamlets about 10 minutes apart on either side of a fairly steep path across the island. Through Airbnb I booked Villa Alkesamos, one of a handful of houses a few minutes walk uphill from the jetty. The house was comfortable and well equipped with two bedrooms, a lounge/kitchenette and a balcony overlooking an olive grove and out to sea with stunning nightly sunsets. 

Trikeri IslandApart from walking on the many tracks around the island and kayaking to small deserted coves the only daily decision was whether to eat at one of the two tavernas or at the villa – bliss!  We caught up on our reading, I retained my Scrabble crown – in spite of numerous challenges – and that was it!

The island is idyllic though not blessed with sandy beaches and access to the sea quite stony so suitable footwear recommended. There was no shop on the island so we had stocked up beforehand in Argalasti, the largest village on the peninsula about 90 minutes drive away and also the nearest cash machine in the area! Provisions to the island come by boat once a week so I joined the locals to buy fruit and vegetables and stocked up with bread, milk, water and, importantly, local wine from the tavernas.

Weekly greengrocery delivery by boat, Trikeri IslandWe ventured off the island only twice to explore fabulous beaches on the northern side of the peninsula at Potistika and Melani and, at the tip of the peninsula, visited Aghia Kiriaki, a harbour village where fishing and traditional boat building are the main source of employment. The harbour, with its brightly coloured caiques and surrounded by excellent fish tavernas, is a working village with hardly a nod to tourism. It was here that I stumbled into a ‘shop’ in the back streets run by a sweet elderly couple where things were little changed from my memories of those early visits in the seventies.  A few random items for sale, no English spoken but where I was offered a seat to sit and talk to them despite the fact I didn’t buy anything! The working harbour of Aghia KiriakiBefore returning to the island we passed through the sleepy mainland village of Trikeri, an old hilltop village of cobbled alleys, churches and a large square surrounded by tavernas, with the feel and architecture of the nearby Sporades islands of Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos and well worth a visit.

We enjoyed our week of peace and tranquility on Trikeri Island so much we changed our plans and stayed for another three nights and for our last night chose to return to the Electra Palace in Thessaloniki. The city was bustling and, surrounded by Greeks with hardly a tourist to be heard, we enjoyed a fantastic meal at Taverna Marathos on Katouni Street.

A great end to a wonderful trip where we truly re-discovered the real Greece, even in August!

More information


Electra Hotel Palace Thessaloniki

Ta Xelidonakia/Little Swallows Guest House, Pinakates, Pelion

Trikeri Island – Villa Alkesamos (Airbnb), Trikeri Villas

Finding the real Greece – Part 1

263 people found this helpful
18753

Share Article:

Chrissy Nason

Travel writer & hotel specialist

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

Home to stunning landscapes, including the flamingo-populated salt lakes, the country offers the perfect overview of the Andes Mountains and…
Jane Wilson visits Seattle, the city renowned for its coffee, buzzing market place and Native American traditions….
Silver Travel Advisor writer Solange Hando discovered amazing wonders in Montenegro on the edge of the Balkans….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.