Short break in Mons – European Culture Capital 2015

Town Hall Deep in the south of Belgium, not far from the French border, the modest town of Mons hit the international headlines in 2014 as commemorations for the Great War got under way.  The first and last British soldiers to die in the conflict lost their lives here and, a century later, rest at Saint-Symphorien cemetery just outside the town.

But this year, the atmosphere in Mons is distinctly more upbeat, as the town celebrates a bright future as European Capital of Culture 2015.  I’d already visited the usual Belgian tourist destinations of Brussels and Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp, so decided to see what Mons has to offer British visitors on a two-night city break.

The journey is certainly simple.  Just take Eurostar from London-St Pancras to Brussels-Midi and change onto one of the regular local services for the 45 min journey to Mons.  Your Eurostar ticket can specify Any Belgian Station at no extra cost – just ask when booking.

As you pull into Mons station, the towers and domes of the Old Town loom invitingly over the rooftops, although the station itself is somewhat less arresting.  Mons is getting a big new station but completion is years away and at the moment, the facility consists of temporary cabins and metal walkways.  

Mons No matter.  There were plenty of taxis outside to whisk us to our hotel.  It’s barely ten minutes from here on foot to the heart of the old town, but with cobbled streets and pavements to contend with, it’s easier – and quieter – to take a cab.

We were booked into the Hôtel Dream, just five minutes’ walk from the Grand’Place (double rooms from €112.50 per night).  An imaginative conversion of a huge church, this popular 4-star hotel with spa and busy restaurant is decorated in contemporary style – a lot of black and white splashed with primary colours.  Our double room featured gothic arches behind the dressing table and overlooked the rear car park.  For a town centre hotel, we found it blissfully quiet at night – a real plus for light sleepers.

So what to do?  Already designated Cultural Capital of Wallonia in 2002, Mons has attracted its latest label thanks to its efforts to safeguard its heritage and share it with visitors.  Three of its attractions are on UNESCO’s World Heritage list – the Baroque belfry, the Neolithic flint mines at nearby Spiennes, and the Doudou, an annual carnival celebrating St George’s victory over the dragon. 

Hotel Dream Heart of the town is the Grand’Place, dominated by a Gothic-style Town Hall.  On a sunny Sunday in March, we found the square buzzing with life as residents and visitors sat at cafe tables watching a big rally of Harley Davidsons.  Slightly surreal beneath the elegant facades, but we made like a local and sat at a cafe table with a glass of local Montois beer. 

Parts of the Town Hall are open to visitors and well worth a look, especialy if you can access the huge hall and balcony overlooking the square.  Then walk through the courtyard and to the quiet garden behind, where a new museum celebrating the Doudou opens in April.  Also scheduled to open in April is the new Mon Memorial Museum to the events of two World Wars.

We visited in March so were too early for either, but we did catch a temporary exhibition at the Fine Arts Museum to Van Gogh who spent some of his formative years as an artist in the mining district of Le Borinage near Mons – on show till May 17.  But the heritage buildings have no time limit and we enjoyed exploring Mons’ peaceful cobbled streets, discovering St Waudru’s huge Collegiate Church, and looking over the town from the foot of the 87-metre high Baroque Belfry.  Perched on the hilltop site of the old castle, the bell tower was still under refurbishment during our stay, but opens soon with a new interpretation centre.  Climb to the top for a real pigeon’s eye view.  

Grand Place In fact a variety of new cultural sites and temporary exhibitions will open in Mons this year and beyond, ensuring that this pretty small town maintains its cultural momentum.  For British visitors, we felt that Mons makes an attractive day trip destination from Brussels.  Or stay overnight for a real two-centre city break.  But unless you have a car to visit the surrounding countryside, two nights is one too many.

And whatever you do, avoid Mondays.  Shops and museums are all closed, apart from a quaint Natural Sciences museum full of Victorian stuffed animals with snarling expressions.  Even the tourist office couldn’t suggest any Monday activities to occupy us so we hopped on a train mid-morning back to Brussels where their Grand’Place was well and truly in business – a lively end to a lovely weekend that contrasted two historic but very different cities.

More information

The new Mons city guide by Anthony Mason (Bradt, £6.99) makes an excellent travelling companion – www.bradtguides.com.

Tourist information from www.visitMons.be

181 people found this helpful
17909

Share Article:

Gillian Thornton

Travel writer

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

There’s something refreshingly nostalgic about the quintessential British coach holiday….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.