That’s the Wray to do it, at a castle by the lake

The National Trust has raised the portcullis at a castle where the grandkids, the kids and the big kid in you can play knights, knaves and no end of Narnia-style magic to their heart’s content.

The first sight of the towering, fairytale turrets and arrow slits takes you back centuries, but the penny soon drops that this is no preserved medieval relic and all is not what it seems.

For Wray Castle in the Lake District is a much more recent Victorian pile, built in 1840 by a Liverpool surgeon as a retirement home for two to impress friends and visitors alike, even though it only has four bedrooms amid the battlements.

Wray Castle - The Lake District The good doctor married a gin heiress, so he was able to afford an astonishing, Lottery-scale sum from her fortune to build his historical flight of  Gothic-Revival  fancy as a des res with a difference, showing in the process that he had a vivid imagination – and must have been crackers.

That shows up in the ornate design of the place, with wonderfully over-the-top touches and clear signs that he influenced the architects and builders to create a stunning and unique “ancient” monument, complete with mock ruins in the sweeping grounds, which was clearly a hit with a young Beatrix Potter when she stayed there with her family as a teenager. His wife, though, is said to have hated the place and refused to live in it.

It’s location near Hawkshead is the reason why the National Trust were delighted to acquire it in the late 1920s – not for the weird and wonderful building, but  because its 60-odd acres of land included an almost priceless few miles of Windermere shoreline, with a jetty, so now you can even  arrive by boat from Ambleside.

With the land secure, the castle itself was rented out to various tenants, like the Merchant Navy as a communications school, and more recently, to mobile phone giants Vodafone.

When they ended their tenancy a couple of years ago, the NT thought of leasing the unfurnished property as a hotel, but then decided to open it up to the public almost as it was – and rising visitor numbers hopefully mean that the off-beat attraction will stay open.

There is, say the NT staff, a fabulous panoramic view from the rooftop, but sadly, there’s no public access, at least not yet, as it is reached by spiral staircase and the dreaded Elf and Safety would not be too happy about the precarious footing on top.

And with a Vodafone legacy of a hi-tech phone mast up there, you wouldn’t want to set all your tooth fillings rattling in your head, either.

Wray Castle - Cumbria The inside of the castle reflects its use as a working environment over the past few decades, but there are original quirks aplenty, along with superb carved timber work, particularly in the soaring central hall. There’s also a full-size billiard room upstairs next to the bedrooms – just think of the effort in carrying its slate base up there – with a secret door and passage leading to the outside. One can only wonder why.

But unlike most other NT mansions and stately homes, Wray Castle is not packed with priceless and fragile fixtures, fitting and family antiques, and that’s what makes it so special  – it’s one giant adventure playground and the only limit is your imagination, with all manner of activities laid on and any amount more that you can make up yourself.

Youngsters can have free rein – and free reign too, dressing up as kings and queens! – with open access to many of the rooms, including one where they can have a bash at building their own castle with giant lightweight blocks.

The estate is also a joy to explore outside, with things like den building, a family tree trail (poet William Wordsworth planted a mulberry tree there in 1845) a rope swing and loads of activities in the “50 Things to Do Before You’re 11¾” area.

There are also impressive-enough views without the need to go climbing to the roof, and you can picnic or sit in the cafe and look down to the lake. Don’t leave it too late to visit the cafe, though, for the rate that the sandwiches disappear from the self-service display shows just how delicious and popular they are. The NT has a great reputation for clean cafes and good, hearty fare (as well as spot-on toilets and a super shop) and the castle is no exception, with food prepared by the Tower Bank Arms near Sawrey, right next door to Beatrix Potter’s home at Hill Top.

The pub dates back to the 17th century, with a frontage featured in The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck,  and is also owned by the NT, but is run independently by tenants who have created pretty impressive attraction of their own.

Thanks to the obvious potential of those beautiful butties, it’s now firmly on my agenda as a stopping-off point on my next trip to my favourite part of England – underlining that my long-standing NT membership is worth every penny.

95 people found this helpful
16973

Share Article:

David Graham

Professional journalist

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

There’s something refreshingly nostalgic about the quintessential British coach holiday….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.