Travels around Malaysia – Part 9: Kota Kinabalu

This is the ninth in a series of blogs that describes our continued travels on the Malaysia Peninsular and the Malaysian portion of Borneo.

Not a Cock & Bull story!

Kota Kinabalu or KK as the locals refer to it, is the Sabah state capital and is set between lush tropical hills and the South China Sea. Able to trace its origins back to 1881 as a settlement on the island of Pulau Gaya, it was called Jesselton when it relocated to the mainland. Tourist Information Office In 1964 when North Borneo became a British Crown Colony, Jessleton was selected as the new capital. It was renamed Kota Kinabalu in 1968 after the imposing Mount Kinabalu nearby, which at over 4,000 meters is the highest in Southeast Asia.

Our exploration of KK started at the Sabah Tourism Building, one of only three buildings to survive the Allied bombing during World War II to liberate North Borneo from Japanese occupation. The helpful staff at the Tourist Information Centre provided us with a map, information booklet and some helpful tips about getting around the city. Just around the corner you can find the steps that lead you up a little jungle trek to Signal Hill Observatory, where you can get a great view of the city and see some of the offshore islands.  From the bottom it looked like a lot of steps and in this humidity and heat we decided to give that a miss and carry on into Australia place. Not a corked hat in sight from the days when Australian soldiers camped here in 1945, its very popular with backpackers. Hostel prices here are very reasonable I’m led to believe.

Atkinson Clock Tower Next up is The Atkinson Clock Tower, the only other building to survive the Allied bombing and still be standing today (the third was lost in a later fire). Not named after ‘Big Ron’ the former football manager but Francis George Atkinson, the first District Officer of Jessleton. Sadly Francis died of Malaria at the tender age of 28 at a time when you couldn’t just pop into Boots for your malaria tablets.  His mother built the tower in his memory in 1905.

A mere few steps away is Gaya Street, the main street of KK. As it was a Sunday morning the street was closed to traffic and hosted the Gaya Street Fair. There was an absolute buzz to this market, not quite the sound of a thousand bees but you get the idea. The traders sell pretty much everything you could imagine to find in a market and plenty you wouldn’t. There are rabbits, tropical fish, clothes and toys, even a mobile health check and sometimes a politician chatting to their constituents. A little bit of street music to add to the mix and it’s an experience you cannot miss.

Jesselton Hotel I’ve mentioned before what nice people the Malaysians are and I observed that a policeman was giving an older lady a bit of a ticking off. Whilst administering the admonishment, however, he had her sat on a comfortable chair under a large umbrella to shield her from the sun.  How civilised! The Jessleton Hotel also resides here, the oldest in KK, and with our reflection in the doors if you look closely.

Should you feel a little homesick there’s plenty to see that harks back to the strong association Sabah has with the British. At Jessleton point you can find some red telephone boxes, not quite the real deal but a good impression. Whilst if you’ve tried the lingo and you’ve had enough of your selamat pagi (good morning) or terima kasih (thank you), there is the comforting bright yellow sign announcing The Cock & Bull. Telefon Boxes Here you can nurture yourself with a lamb chop and dream of the cliffs of Dover, but not for us.

We headed back to The Magellan and Al fresco. This is the place to be for the sunset, live music, a good band singing some real classics, Eagles, Shadows and a curried lamb pizza. Heaven.

There are so many great places to visit it Sabah I can understand why KK is often used as a launchpad to other places, rather than a destination in itself. As well as the city there are other attractions just outside, like the State Museum or the Heritage Village. Where your budget and schedule allows, particularly if you can get here on a weekend to take in the steam railway and Gaya St Fair, I think it’s worth a visit.

Next stop Putrajaya.

For holidays to Asia, Silver Travel Advisor recommends Selective Asia.

311 people found this helpful
16913

Share Article:

Steve Aldridge

Award-winning travel writer

Leave a comment

*

Sign up to our newsletter to receive the latest travel tips on top destinations.

Join the club

Become a member to receive exclusive benefits

Our community is the heart of Silver Travel Advisor, we love nothing more than sharing ideas, inspiration, hints and tips between us.

Most Recent Articles

There’s something refreshingly nostalgic about the quintessential British coach holiday….

Come feel the love on a Princess cruise. You’ll enjoy the MedallionClass experience others simply can’t, and it’s exclusively for everyone. Visit incredible destinations and be involved in the best experiences around each one of them.

Experience more with Princess and connect effortlessly with the world around you, spend time away with loved ones, take a moment for yourself, and fall in love with your holiday of a lifetime, every time.

With over 20 years of experience, Wendy Wu Tours has mastered the art of creating exceptional, fully inclusive tours which showcase the very best of each destination.

Each tour is led by a world-class guide, who will highlight the very best of their homeland, and includes authentic cultural experiences so you are not just seeing the sights, but truly immersing yourself in local life.

Say hello to ease at sea. Ambassador’s purpose is simple: they want to inspire every guest to experience authentic cruising, effortlessly and sustainably. Passionate about protecting our oceans and destinations, their ships comply with the highest industry emission standards and there is no single-use plastic on board.

On your voyage, you will receive the warmest of welcomes from the Ambassador community as you sail upon the friendliest ships afloat.

This is a global co-operative co-owned by local partners using real local experts and guides, which supports local communities, environments and wildlife. It offers travellers quirky places to stay, activity holidays and learning experiences. Not In The Guidebooks gets travellers off the beaten track into local culture with day experiences and longer, immersive adventures.

From wild wellness breaks in Wales to painting in Portugal, sustainable adventures in Mauritius to food safaris in Brazil, this is immersive, exciting travel.

Seabourn’s five intimate ships carry guests to the heart of great cities, exclusive yacht harbours and secluded coves around the world, while two new purpose-built expedition ships will combine exhilarating adventures in remote destinations with the sophisticated amenities of the world’s finest resorts at sea.

From the luxury of all suite accommodations to complimentary fine wines and spirits, and a no tipping policy, Seabourn exemplifies the definition of travelling well.