Marion Ainge enjoys a gingerbread treat in Grasmere and joins a candle-making masterclass
In 1854, Victorian cook Sarah Nelson taught Grasmere’s village children to read using gingerbread letters she baked herself. This year, the Grasmere Gingerbread® business in the Lake District village of picturesque Grasmere, celebrates the life and times of Sarah Nelson on her 170th year anniversary.
Today, Grasmere Gingerbread® is in demand all over the world. People queue daily outside Sarah’s former home, the former Church Cottage, now the shop and bakery, to buy this spicy sweet ginger-themed treat, which is a cross between a biscuit and a cake. Over the years, the shop has welcomed famous visitors, including Rory Bremner, Tom Cruise and Renee Zellwegger (star of the film Miss Potter). Chefs Jamie Oliver and Phil Vickery have raved about the confection. Grasmere Gingerbread® also has a quaint little shop in historic market village Hawkshead, which is just a couple of miles from Beatrix Potter’s Hill Top house and farm in Near Sawrey.
Directors Andrew and Joanne Hunter, took over the helm of the Grasmere shop and tiny bakery in 2000 with just three staff. Now there are more than 30. The original recipe is locked in a bank vault, but Joanne, 57, doesn’t know it. In the bakery, I watch Paul and Lucas at work. However, as they and all the staff are signed in to a ‘secrecy clause’, I know better than to ask for the recipe!
As a kitchen maid, Joanne’s maternal grandma, Nanny Hunter served tea to Miss Potter at The King’s Head Inn, Thirlmere. Joanne’s paternal grandfather Grandad Wilson, retired to a tied cottage belonging to Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage in Grasmere. One of Grandad Wilson’s duties was to light the fires in the property. Joanne’s maternal descendants who lived at Brookstones, (the cottage between Rydal Mount and Dove Cottage) entertained the Wordsworths for tea on their return from visits to Grasmere.
Pretty Grasmere village, described by Wordsworth as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”, is the churchyard burial place of the famous bard. Visitors flock to the poet’s family home, where he lived with his sister, Dorothy, and wife, Mary, for eight years. Three of William and Mary’s five children were born here, and their former home is filled with their personal possessions and warmed by glowing coal fires. Much of Wordsworth’s poetry was penned here and Dorothy’s fascinating Grasmere Journals are on display in the adjoining museum. Behind the cottage, accessed by a door halfway up the dog leg staircase, is the peaceful, half-wild, fell-side garden, where Wordsworth often found the inspiration to compose his poetry.
The views from our charming cottage are also well worth writing about. The Coppermines Top Garden Suite in Far Sawrey nestles in a glorious, tranquil setting on different levels where trees and shrubs bask in their autumn colours of gold, red, orange and purple. It’s a special place. The stunning views stretch right across to Lake Windermere. From the car parking area, we pass the patio with table and chairs, hearing only birdsong. This leads to a railed, wooden walkway up to the porch of this charming, comfortable cottage, which features central heating, a lounge with huge Smart TV and log burner, galley kitchen with induction hob and dishwasher, two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a shared laundry room. It rests in an ideal location, only a mile to Windermere car ferry, two miles from Hawkshead, five to Grizedale hamlet and forest, six to Coniston and down the road to Beatrix Potter’s Hill Top farmhouse and garden.
From our cottage, it’s short walk to Moss Eccles Tarn formerly owned by Beatrix Potter, who donated it to the National Trust. Beatrix often fished at the tarn where the water lilies which surface in the summer, are said to have inspired her Jeremy Fisher character. Out of season, it’s a peaceful amble around the small lake with only a few sheep for company.
Besides a very warm welcome, diners can expect to see some exciting new flavours on the menu at Cuckoo Brow Inn, Far Sawrey, which is only minutes from our base. This four-star, residential, old coaching inn is popular with walkers, visitors and locals alike. Adding to the popular British fare, manager Sanjeev Halooman has introduced fusion dishes from Mauritius, which include the fragrant flavours and rich curries of Mauritius. We’d really like to taste both the speciality dishes and Sanjeev kindly offers to provide a dish of the Mauritian curry alongside our other main course.
We feast on huge, plump, juicy king prawns covered in garlic butter and mixed herbs served alongside Mauritian-style aromatic pilau rice. The rich, flavoursome ‘Cari Poulet’ chicken curry, which comes with fluffy, white basmati rice and tasty tomato salsa, is sublime.
Fragrances of a different kind fill my senses at the Pure Lakes Skincare candle-making masterclass situated in Far Sawrey, almost next door to our cottage driveway. Owner/tutor Claire passes round trays of essential oils – frankincense, patchouli, lavender, basil, rosemary and many more. It’s an indulgent pleasure as we take time testing and trying, eventually selecting a base, middle and top note fragrance. My three favourites are rosewood, lime and ylang ylang, sometimes called ‘The Queen of Perfumes’. Selections can be linked to therapeutic and emotional needs, such as anxiety and insomnia. Then we weigh, stir and mix thoroughly before infusing our aromatic blends into a natural, rapeseed and coconut oil wax which, when poured into our glass containers, solidifies in about 20 minutes.
My candle would make a lovely gift, I think to myself. But now, as its delicious scent continues to fill my bedroom, I’m having second thoughts.
Next steps
To plan your trip to the Lake District, whether that’s for a weekend or a week, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
