Travel through Cornwall towards Land’s End and there is a unique feel to the landscape as the peninsula funnels down towards England’s most westerly point. Just eight miles separate the buzzing but contrasting towns of Penzance on the south coast and St Ives in the north, but although the land mass becomes increasingly narrow, there is still a wide choice of special places to visit, many of them accessible by public transport.
Pretty harbours of colourful fishing boats; high cliffs, rugged headlands and sandy coves; and a variety of heritage sites amidst a green landscape where standing stones rise up behind hedgerows and the ruins of abandoned tin mines are testament to the area’s once thriving industry. Offshore, the unmistakeable outline of St Michael’s Mount reminds travellers of a more spiritual age, although the St Michael’s Way from Lelant is still a popular one-day micro-pilgrimage through a land of Saints and Giants.
Arrive in Penzance by train and you can travel all around the peninsula from the bus hub outside the station or take the local branch line to St Ives via Hayle and Carbis Bay. Here’s what I managed to pack into a four-night break in the tip of Cornwall.
Pootle around Penzance
A busy port and commercial centre since ancient times, Penzance is packed with maritime history. Visit local pubs like the atmospheric Turk’s Head on Chapel Street, oldest pub in the town, and the nearby Union Hotel where news of Nelson’s death at Trafalgar was first announced. Admire the streets of period seaside villas; enjoy paintings by the Newlyn School at the Penlee House Gallery & Museum; and stroll amongst the exotic trees and shrubs of Penlee Park and Morab Gardens that thrive in the mild climate.
The main shopping street – Market Jew Street – is lined with independent gift shops and boutiques as well as everyday essentials. Taking its name from the old name for Marazion further round Mount’s Bay, it slopes up towards the imposing Market House and a statue of Sir Humphry Davy, inventor of the miners’ safety lamp that was once a lifesaver to the local labour force. Skirt the harbour westwards from the station and you pass the open air Jubilee Pool in distinctive Art Deco style, before following the pleasant promenade walk to the adjacent fishing port of Newlyn.
Explore on the Lands End Coaster Bus
There are few nicer ways to West Cornwall than from the Land’s End Coaster bus, whether you choose to hop on and off, or just sit tight and enjoy the 4-hour loop. Head up to the top deck if possible – covered at the front, open at the back – for outstanding views of coast and countryside. Parts of the route wind through narrow country lanes but other vehicles know to back up! Departure times vary with the season so do check the time of the next bus if you are planning to disembark along the way (timetables on line at www.firstbus.co.uk).
I boarded the Land’s End Coaster in Penzance, had coffee at Land’s End overlooking the lighthouse, and then walked the coast path to Sennen Cove for a crab sandwich before picking up the next Coaster and disembarking at St Ives. Here you can visit Tate St Ives and the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden or simply stroll beside one of the prettiest harbours in the South-West. Return to Penzance by Coaster or any other regular service. For a change of perspective, travel the circuit in reverse.
Other places of interest on the Land’s End Coaster route include Porthcurno, where PK Porthcurno museum tells the story of the first undersea communication cables, and Geevor Tin Mine, both open throughout the year.
Take a day trip to the Isles of Scilly
This archipelago of islands, some 27 miles south-west of Land’s End, has long been on my To Do list, so the chance to take a day trip from Penzance was too good to miss. You can fly by helicopter from Penzance heliport but I travelled out on one of three options offered by Isles of Scilly Travel. For the most amount of time on the islands, take a return trip on the Skybus that flies to St Mary’s in just 20 minutes from Land’s End Airport. Cheapest option but with the shortest time on St Mary’s, is a two-way sailing on Scillonian III, a cruise of 2hr 45min from Penzance harbour. Or do as I did and fly out on the Skybus and sail back on the Scillonian.
Shuttle buses meet flight arrivals and within minutes, we were down at the harbour buying tickets for the 10-minute boat crossing to Tresco to visit the famous Abbey Gardens. Watch native red squirrels playing in the trees around the feeding stations and amble through the network of paths lined with rare trees and shrubs. After a scenic seaside stroll to The New Inn for lunch, it was time to cross back to St Mary’s for shopping and a cuppa before boarding the Scillonian. This stretch of sea can be a lively at times, but we enjoyed calm waters and playful dolphins, as we cruised past Land’s End into Penzance as the sun sank behind the church tower.
Enjoy the 3 Ms – Mousehole, Marazion and St Michael’s Mount
West of Penzance, the historic fishing village of Mousehole boasts one of the loveliest harbours in Cornwall. Parking can be a challenge at peak times so for preference take the bus or even walk from Penzance. Wander through the narrow lanes lined with stone cottages and discover the story of the 1981 Penlee lifeboat disaster that made overnight heroes of too many local volunteers.
No trip to Mount’s Bay would be complete without a visit to Marazion, home to tempting boutiques and restaurants, and departure point to St Michael’s Mount. Catch a bus around Mount’s Bay from Penzance or leave your vehicle in one of the seashore car parks on the edge of the village.
Owned by the National Trust, the house on the Mount is still lived in by the St Aubyn family and is closed to visitors from November through March. Check for seasonal opening hours on www.nationaltrust.org.uk. But the harbour, village, shop and cafes remain open all year. Travel from the mainland by small boat when the tide is in or walk across the causeway at low tide for a unique perspective on this glorious section of Cornish coastline.
Next steps
Further information from www.visitcornwall.com/regions/westcornwall and www.visitislesofscilly.com
To plan your next holiday in Cornwall and get a personalised quote, call Silver Travel Advisor on 0800 412 5678.
